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Of course, I can also custom process images after applying the preset – there are adjustments that are best made on a per-image basis using levels and curves adjustments, local contrast enhancement, hue adjustment color is often cooler than I would like , and so forth. Sounds like its a matter of technique more than anything. Who can afford thousands of dollars on a lens anyway? I now have a Lunar Eclipse sequence here. Focal Length Type see all. First test were done with lens on a very steady tripod using mirror lockup and IR remote.

EmilG November 2, 4: Second, modern cameras don’t have split-image focusing screens and Canon does not give focus confirmation so focusing is guesswork. Look, this is a good camera. But I do think most of the naysayers are not taking full advantage of the potential of the lens – shooting with questionable focus and stability, without a hood, and not enhancing for contrast or sharpness or color. As you can see from the included photos of my old Pantera, you can almost make out the phillips head screw in the rear light — and unfortunately the rust starting break out. Black objects on the other hand absorb light and this is converted to heat. A good tripod helps a lot.

After you get your Rikinon lens, let me know what you think of it. In addition, since that lens is long and undoubtedly extremely front heavy that big front element being most of the weightit will be a bear to handle and will probably need support gear that costs more than the lens itself in order to have any chance at decent results. So clearly the Pro Optic mm f6. To avoid mistakes, always focus while looking through the viewfinder. Third, as you focus the lens it could unscrew itself from the adaptor.

Nikon D and DE released. Since a reflex lens is not equipped with a diaphragm system, the use of filters and the shutter speed control play an important factor in the control of light and contrast. Once the lighting dims due lwns clouds or the sun going down, the ISO has to go up. Again serues can see the same trend.

Image 2A is correctly exposed from the onset, or only sightly OE. So why not post-process a mirror image?


So as I said in the beginning of this article, I did finally pick up a Vivitar-branded version of the lens. T-Stops take light absorption into account, so though the lens would be f2. But if you need to be convinced, here is a comparison. I’d never use it on a paying job, but have no reservations about shooting other things with it.

500mm Mirror f6.3 or a 500 f8 fixed telephoto lens

DARK as opposed to wide 11 with electronic or mechanical coupling “correcting” the metering to account for the aperture selected that will be used at the moment of exposure. The “donut” shape of out of focus specular highlights shows the shape of the effective iris of the lens So the speed of a mirror lens is usually less 11 the f-stop would suggest due to the partial obstruction of light by the secondary mirror in the middle of the lens and also sometimes because you lose more light at a reflecting surface then you do by passing light though a lens element of lens group.

I am very serious about buying one also.

So to be able to capture a good handheld shot with a mm lens no 2x converter attached your shutter speed on a Canon Rebel camera should be x1. It’s a lens that might be fun to t6.3 with, but it’s probably not a tool you’d want to try to use for serious telephoto work.

But the prominence of the donuts also has to do with how far you are from your subject relative to the out of focus areas. Seriws Muin, thank you for your comment.

T Mount More from this Seller. Not really seeing any. I have a mm f6. Buena suerte con la lente de espejo! First remember you’re working with a mirror lens, so very little light comes through it. But I have observed that in most venues where you might need very long focal lengths mm or morethe stage lighting is often good enough that you can get away with smaller apertures than one needs in smaller clubs.

Would you recommend it for brand new mirrorless Olympus Em-1? Thank you for the nice review. On a full frame slight vignetting has been reported but is easily adjusted. Aesthetically – the lens is all I expected and I find it beautiful. By resting the camera on the balcony railing, I was able to get the camera steady enough to take this shot: The weight isn’t a problem for me and I can shoot holding the lens pretty easily. And in situations – like with birds in trees, or birds swries flight, even – where you might find yourself focusing manually even with an vivitaar lens, having the subject appear large in the viewfinder can help.


In the Digital Darkroom haze and other cons above can be mitigated. He is asking me to look at a vivitar mm f6.

Following leens is a corresponding crop from the Vivitar, resized to match. Hope you have lots of fun with it! The best – and I consider it the most right on – review can be found here.

In a lot of shots – such as most of the ones I’ve posted here – I am barely aware of it. A good tripod helps a lot. But does this youth have the lena to use a tripod?

My first use of mirrors was in about ’83 on SLR of course! F63 is definitly something off with the lens as clear focus could not be optain on a very sunny clear day. It only takes some practice. There’s really nothing you can do about this. Save Cancel Drag to set position! Canon EF mm F4.

Marc Sabatella: The Vivitar /8 Mirror Lens

Sang Rudloff April 19, 8: With practice you can get pretty proficient with a mirror. Also if the background is smooth and continuous like the sky, a photo backdrop or a uniform wallthe effects of the lens’ central obstruction on out of focus regions won’t be evident. Seems like you’d want it to flare out a bit, but maybe with that long focal length it’s really not necessary? I have created a preset that increases contrast and sharpness while adding a bit more vibrance too.